Antigua Guatemala’s Coffee Tours, Teas and Chocolate: A Guide

Antigua Guatemala is very much linked to coffee, both in tradition and culturally. Antigua’s resurgence is due in part to its abundance of fertile volcanic soil, which is suitable for growing coffee beans.

Today, you can’t walk half a block without stumbling into yet another coffee shop – great news for coffee-lovers. Even Starbucks has its special brand of Antigua Guatemala coffee for sale – check it out here.

In addition to great coffee shops, you can go on informative tours of Antigua’s coffee plantations, which are listed below. Did you know that the Mayans discovered chocolate? In Antigua, you can taste the original chocolate drinks that so enthralled visiting Europeans. Learn below where to find the most authentic chocolate in town.

Coffee Shops in Antigua Guatemala

coffee, antigua guatemala

Antigua Guatemala is a coffee lover’s paradise

Everyone here has their favorite coffeehouse and barista. However, you won’t go wrong if you start your search for the perfect cup in any of the excellent cafés in town. In no order of preference, check out:

Bella Vista Cafe

6a Avenida Norte #1

The coffee bar is on the first floor, but they have a huge terrace on the third floor with great views of nearby volcanoes.

The Refuge Coffee Bar

7a Avenida Norte #18A

Recently spruced up, Refuge has been carefully roasting and serving their coffee for years to faithful patrons. You’ll smell the wonderful roasting beans from half a block away.

Gato Gordo/Fat Cat

4a Calle Oriente #14A

These two brothers have made a name for themselves by serving quality coffee for a while now.

Cafe Boheme

5a Calle Poniente #12B

Unassuming place, Boheme has great coffee at a good price.

Ganache

6a Avenida Sur #1

Coffee and dessert at Ganache, antigua guatemala

Coffee and dessert at Ganache

One of the prettiest coffee shops in Antigua, as it has a French flair and pastel colors to match. Go here if you’d like to pair up your coffee with an incredible dessert.

GuateJava Roastery

6a Calle Poniente #26

Sitting on the corner of 6a Calle and 7a Avenida, this small shop invites visitors to linger, and people watch.

Fernando’s Kaffee

7a Avenida Norte & Callejón Camposeco

A little bit out of the way, Fernando will reward those persistent enough to find him with excellent coffee, which he carefully selects and roasts on site.

Cafe Condessa Express

5a Avenida – Across from Parque Central

If you need a quick cup of coffee, there’s no reason to enter the restaurant. Just pop in next door, to their small coffee counter. Condessa brews strong coffee and opens at 6 a.m.

Casa Blanca Gastropub

5a Avenida Sur #13

Casa Blanca Gastropub

Great iced drinks at Casa Blanca

If you like iced-coffee drinks, this is the place to visit. I highly recommend their Dirty Chai (spiced chai + espresso). Their courtyard is huge, and they have a lovely terrace you’ll often have to yourself, as very few people know about it.

El Portal – 5a Avenida

Across from Parque Central

A popular expat hangout, they serve good coffee as well. Sit on a stool at the counter, and people watch – as close to a sidewalk cafe as you’ll see in Antigua.

La Parada

6a Avenida and 1a Calle

La Parada coffee shop in Antigua Guatemala

La Parada coffee shop in Antigua Guatemala

Recently expanded, La Parada has inexpensive, quality coffee, and a limited assortment of croissants and cold sandwiches – good WiFi too.

Coffee Tours in Antigua Guatemala

For those wishing to go beyond enjoying a good cup of coffee, I recommend taking a coffee plantation tour.

Filadelfia Coffee Plantation

Finca Filadelfia Unimog Shuttle

Free rides to Finca Filadelfia in this cool truck

Reachable from Carretera San Felipe to Jocotenango, Finca Filadelfia has in-depth tours, showing you all the stages of coffee production, from plant to cup. You can catch Filadelfia’s cool, green Unimog shuttles in front of Capuchinas Convent (2a Avenida Norte & 2a Calle Oriente) every day at 8:20 am, 10:20 am and 1:20 pm and at the ruins of San Jose El Viejo (5a Avenida Sur & 8a Calle) at 8:30 am, 10:30 am and 1:30 pm.

The shuttle ride is free whether you want to take a coffee tour or visit one of their restaurants. For connoisseurs, they offer professional coffee tastings and latte-art workshops.

De La Gente Tours

De La Gente will give you an inside look at the working conditions of Guatemalan coffee farmers, among other fascinating cultural experiences.

Chocolate Shops in Antigua Guatemala

Mayans introduced chocolate to Europeans, and the town of San Juan del Obispo offers some of the best examples of Mayan chocolate in Guatemala. Visit the town for an opportunity to see artisanal chocolatiers at work and even take part in making authentic chocolate.

For a fun experience – especially for kids – visit ChocoMuseo, (4a Calle Oriente #14 – 502-7832-4520), an international chain dedicated to selling and teaching all things chocolate.

Tea Shops in Antigua Guatemala

Last, but not least, visit Samsara (6a Calle Poniente #33 & 3a Calle Oriente #35). They have a wide selection of teas and funky atmosphere.

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What’s your favorite coffee shop in Antigua Guatemala?

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Guatemalan Food Guide – See The Top 14 Dishes!

In 2007, Guatemala’s Ministry of Culture designated specific dishes as the Guatemalan food most emblematic of the country – a fifth dish was added in 2015.

Most of these Guatemalan dishes can be found throughout the country, though pinol (or pinole) is specific to the Sacatepequez region.

Traditional Guatemalan Food

Here’s the official Guatemalan food list, as recognized by the country’s Ministry of Culture:

Jocon

A green sauce, slightly acidic, served with meat

Pepian

Mildly spicy stew with meat

Kaq Ik

Mayan spicy turkey soup

Platanos en Mole

Sweet plantains, with a spicy, sweet chocolate sauce

Pinol

Mayan drink/stew made from corn and spices

The country of Guatemala has 19 departments or administrative zones, and Antigua Guatemala happens to be the capital of the Sacatepéquez department. Though there are dishes that are familiar in all of Guatemala, there are also many regional variations to traditional Guatemalan food.

Here is a list of local Guatemalan dishes you should give a try if you’re in Guatemala – it will greatly enhance your understanding of the local culture:

Tamales

There are hundreds of types of tamales in Guatemalan cuisine. Guatemalan tamales can best be described as containing corn, rice or potato dough, sauce, some meat, and often hot pepper, all wrapped in green maxan leaves or corn husks. Some tamales are eaten once a year; others are available only during specific days of the week.

guatemalan tamalesTamales colorados

In Antigua, you’ll find “Tamales Colorados” (red tamales), a favorite local variation that has a unique tomato and achiote based paste called “recado” and filled with pork and a hot chili pepper inside. These tamales are available every Saturday, and if you don’t eat them that day, it’s very likely you’ll be eating a reheated dish.

Every local has their favorite tamale vendor, and tamales are purchased to either eat at home or to save them for Sunday morning’s breakfast. We can recommend tamales from Doña Chuz (corner of 7a Avenida Norte and 1a Calle Poniente), a grandmother who has been setting up shop at the same corner for over 20 years. She also sells paches (potato tamales, which others usually sell on Thursdays) and the hard-to-find Tamales Negros (black tamales); the latter made with a sweet corn dough, mole (chocolate sauce), along with raisins, prunes, and chicken.

You can also find great tamales and paches at the Portal (strip mall) at Alameda Santa Lucía, in front of La Repostería bakery (she sets up shop at around 5 pm).

Tamales Colorados are eaten with coffee and Guatemala’s version of french bread, while hot chocolate is served alongside Tamales Negros.

A tamale or a pache is a filling, inexpensive meal, costing about Q6-Q10 each. If you want an authentic sit-down experience, La Canche (the hidden, hole in the wall restaurant on 6a Avenida Norte, in front of La Merced) serves up tamales every Saturday.

For a more upscale – and expensive – presentation, visit Los Tres Tiempos (5a Avenida Norte #31) – a far better bet than other tourist traps in town.

Chuchitos (Choo-CHEE-toes)

Another item you can easily find everywhere is chuchito (also slang for “small dog”), made from the same dough as tamales, but firmer and wrapped in dried corn husks. They usually have a bit of pork or chicken on the inside and are topped with a tomato-based sauce and a sprinkle of hard cheese. You can substitute the tomato sauce for a spicy sauce at no cost.

Chuchitos a cheap, filling street breakfast, also available for lunch, but most commonly around dinnertime. We recommend the chuchitos sold near La Merced, on the corner of 1a Calle Poniente and 6a Avenida Norte.

Pepián (peppy-ANN)

No Guatemalan dish is more emblematic of the country than pepián. This dish, once a regional specialty, has become a national dish. This spicy and slightly bitter stew is a fusion between Maya and Spanish cuisine. What gives pepián its characteristic flavor are the toasted pumpkin seeds (known as pepitoria), tomatoes and guisquil (a type of squash). It also contains corn, carrot, potatoes and other vegetables and the meat in it can be chicken, pork or beef, though there are versions with combinations of two or more meats.

Guatemalan pepian

Pepian, one of Guatemala’s national dishes

This stew is available from the most humble of restaurants to the fanciest, and often offered as the meal of the day special. We recommend Rincón Tipico and El Portón, both authentic, inexpensive, and within a half-block, from each other (3a Avenida Sur & 6a Calle Oriente) though you may find a version that you like elsewhere.

Jocón (hoe-CON)

Jocon is another traditional sauce – also a national dish, made from green tomatillo sauce, heavy on cilantro, and thickened with sesame seeds. It’s usually accompanied by chicken and white rice.

Revolcado (reh-voll-CA-doh)

This pig head stew is one of those dishes that might take some time to get used to – local old-timers love it. It’s fine, as long as you’re not overthinking about the bits of pig’s heart, tongue, ears, kidney, brain, and liver you’re eating. Usually accompanied with white rice. If you can get past the squeamishness, it’s a tasty stew worth eating.

Chiles Rellenos (CHEE-leh re-YEH-no)

These pork-stuffed bell peppers are another popular street food item. The cooked pork is mixed with sauteed carrots, green beans, potatoes, onions, then seasoned, and stuffed into bell peppers. The stuffed peppers are then covered in egg batter and fried. Once you order them from your favorite street vendor, the peppers are placed on a bread roll and garnished with onions and parsley. In a restaurant, they might be served with white rice.

Rellenitos (re-yeh-NEE-to)

rellenitos from Guatemala

Rellenitos

This street-food item fits more in the dessert category and usually available at dinner time. Fried egg-shaped balls made with sweet plantains boiled in water along with cinnamon, filled with a sauce made from black beans, chocolate, cinnamon, and topped with sugar. Delicious stuff.

Buñuelos (Boo-new-EH-loss)

sweet bunuelos

Tasty, sweet buñuelos

Another traditional dessert, this somewhat fluffy, fried dough balls are served in a small bowl and covered with a light, anise-flavored syrup. Can be addictive.

Pupusas (Poo-POO-sass)

This filling street food comes to Guatemala from neighboring El Salvador. It’s a tortilla filled with cheese or pork cracklings, fried to a slight crisp.

street pupusas in antigua guatemala

Guatemala’s version of Salvadorean pupusas

The Salvadorean version can include refried black beans, though this is not commonly seen in Guatemala. Pupusas are topped with curtido, or pickled cabbage, and are usually sold at dinner time. Though I prefer the Salvadorean version (with beans), I quite enjoy the Guatemalan ones.

Dobladas (Doh-BLAH-das)

Guatemala’s version of empanadas (meat or potato filled pastries). Topped with pickled cabbage, salsa, and grated cheese. A close variation is a Guatemalan taco, which is nothing like a Mexican taco.

pork dobladas from guatemala

Dobladas

Guatemalan tacos resemble small flutes, and their hard, fried corn shells are stuffed with either seasoned potato or a mix of beef and potatoes. Also, receives the same topping as dobladas. Hit or miss, but a well-made doblada (not chewy and greasy) is glorious.

Piloyada Antigueña (pee-loh-YAH-dah)

Piloyada is a dish that’s somewhat hard to find, even though it originated in Antigua. Usually offered as a special dish on Sundays. It’s not quite a salad, and it’s made with a particular type of bean, known as “piloyes,” hence the name. Once beans are cooked, then the rest of the ingredients are added: chorizo, sausage, “butifarra” (Spanish sausage), pork, farmer’s cheese, bell peppers, onions, tomatoes, vinegar, olive oil, garlic, among other things – some versions include chicken. A hearty dish – not the type of salad you’ll have to keep the diet going. Typically eaten cold.

Atol Blanco (ah-TOLL BLAN-coh)

One of the most popular drinks in Guatemala, which you’ll see being consumed in bowls. Unlike other atoles mentioned below, this white-corn based drink is not sweet, and it’s made with the same corn that’s used to make tortillas. More like soup, it’s served hot and consumed straight from the bowl. It has a bit of spicy chili pepper, black beans, salt, and lime. Sellers will dump a spoonful of cooked blacked beans at the bottom of the bowl, leaving a signature bean-colored streak.

Atol de Elote (ah-TOLL deh eh-LOH-teh)

A traditional yellow corn dough-based drink, with milk and sugar, added. Very sweet, available everywhere, and usually topped with a few corn kernels. Great drink on chilly nights.

sweet atol de elote

Atol de elote

Other drinks available are atol de plátano (plantain-based drink), atol de habas (lima bean drink), atol de arroz (like a more liquid rice pudding), and atol de arroz con chocolate (similar to atol de arroz, but with chocolate).

Corn Tortillas

And of course, we can’t forget the ubiquitous corn tortillas, which are consumed for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Tortilla makers are a common sight throughout Guatemala, especially at noon time. Shaping the corn dough to a flawlessly round shape is a skill that takes a lot of practice to develop.

tortillas on the comal

Preparing corn tortillas

In fact, consuming tortillas is so ingrained into certain segments of the population (usually indigenous), that a meal served without tortillas is like a proper meal was never served at all – it’s the quintessential Guatemalan food. A tortilla made with real ground corn, not the commercial corn flour sold everywhere in the country, is sublime. I love black corn tortillas.

guatemalan black corn tortillas

Black corn tortillas

There are a lot more dishes to be found in Guatemala, of course, but this list is a good start, and the items are readily available in Antigua Guatemala. Bookmark it, as there are a lot of traditional dishes missing here I’ll be adding to this list in the future.

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More food options here: https://okantigua.com/category/foodies/

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What are some of your favorite

Guatemalan dishes not on this list?

Nance (Yellow Cherries): Guatemalan Fruits

Nances (Yellow Cherries) are one of those polarizing fruits – if you grew up eating it, there’s nothing better in the world than gorging on them. If you’ve never tasted it before, you might be wondering what the fawning in Guatemala for nance is all about.

If you’ve never had it before, you might just spit it out as soon as you bite into it. Don’t be fooled by the name – nances taste nothing like cherries.

Yellow Cherry (Nance) Wallpaper

nance guatemala yellow cherry

Meet nances

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My wife and the rest of her family – all Guatemalans – love nance. Personally, I find nance tolerable when I consume it raw – it has a robust flavor and texture that is unlike any other fruit I’ve tasted before. The good news is that it’s not the only way to eat nance – more on that later. First, a little background on what I consider to be a beautiful looking fruit.

Origins of Nance

Nance, its scientific name is Byrsonima crassifolia, is found abundantly in the wild throughout southern Mexico, Caribbean, Central, and South America. It grows in very short quantities in South Florida, where it was first introduced via Panama. It seems as if every country has a name for this fruit – it’s known as Changugu, Nantzin, Chi, Nancen, Craboo, Doncela, Maricao, Paralejo, Tapal, Chaparro, Hori, and Sabana Mango.

Even in Guatemala, nances are known by different names, as given by locals – it’s known as Chi in the Q’eqchi’ language and as Tapal in Kaqchikel. Ancient Mayas knew the fruit, as it was mentioned in their sacred mythology text, the Popol Vuh.

Nances are gorgeous

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Nances tend to come in two varieties – sweet and tart, each depending on the soil they’re grown in. It retains its distinctive smell even after it’s prepared.

Where To Get Nance

In Guatemala, nance season runs almost parallel with the rainy season. You can easily find it at the Mercado from April to July.

At the height of nance season, I was able to purchase them at 3Q a pound – I did not attempt to bargain.

Uses for Nance

Aside from nance fruit, in Antigua, you’ll find it as refresco (non-alcoholic beverage), sorbet, ice cream, and in candied form. It’s also prepared as a fermented alcoholic drink known as “guaro de nance,” popular in the western part of the country.

Preparing nance as a beverage is relatively simple. Just crush it to remove the pits, just like you would do with cherries – here’s a quick way to do it. Once your nances are pitted, just throw them into a blender, add a bit of water, ice, and you’ll have fresh nance drink.

As an alternative, you can add milk and ice – my preferred method, to get a creamier result. You can add a bit of sugar if you’d like, but this will depend on the sweetness of the nances you’ve used. Freeze it once mixed for an interesting treat.

nance guatemala yellow cherry

Homemade nance ice cream

And that’s it! Give nances a try – they might just end up being one of your favorites.

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See more of Antigua’s fruits: https://okantigua.com/category/foodies/

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Do you like nances?

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Getting Around: Driving In Antigua Guatemala

Antigua Guatemala is a small city of under 40,000 residents. Most people get around Antigua on foot or using a patchwork network of privately-owned public transportation.

Many residents own motorcycles or scooters to get around town. Those who can afford it prefer cars for trips to the city and nearest big-box stores and supermarkets.

Driving in Antigua Guatemala – Roads and Rules

Cars drive on the right side of the road and have the driver’s seat and steering wheel on their left side. The legal minimum age in Guatemala for driving is 18 years. Road signs and rules follow international standards, and signs on the main roads are in Spanish.

Drinking and driving are strictly prohibited. Seat belts are mandatory, but it’s rarely enforced in Antigua. The use of a mobile phone while driving is prohibited, but again, this is rarely enforced in Antigua Guatemala.

cell phone and driving guatemala

Operating a cell phone while driving is supposed to be prohibited

The standard speed limits are 80 km/h on expressways, 50 km/h in town. Due to Antigua’s cobblestone streets and uneven pavement, it’s recommended that drivers slow down – those who don’t want to damage their vehicle’s suspension at least.

Nearly all roads in Guatemala are toll-free except for the expressway that leads from Palin, Escuintla to the Pacific Coast.

Children’s Car Seats

Currently, there are no laws in Guatemala requiring the use of car seat for children of any age. However, for the safety of children, visitors should provide them with car seats, and requests the same when renting vehicles at local car rental agencies.

Drivers are aggressive and don’t tend to be considerate towards pedestrians. Drivers also frequently disregard stop signs and have a tendency to speed.

International Driving Permits

Visitors are allowed to drive in Guatemala with their home country’s driver’s license for the first 30 days. You’ll be required to carry your passport to prove you’re staying legally in Guatemala.

Foreigners staying in Guatemala for longer than 30 days can drive here with an International Driving Permit (IDP). Guatemala does not issue IDPs – you should purchase yours in advance. To obtain one, visit your country’s national automobile association (in the US, that would be AAA). Guatemala only recognizes IDPs based on the 1949 Geneva Convention, which is issued by many countries. Having an IDP alone is not sufficient to drive in Guatemala – you must show IDP and a valid driver’s license and passport if requested.

If obtaining an IDP is a challenge, there is an alternative way of driving past 30 days in the country. The Guatemalan National Civil Police will issue “permisos temporal” (temporary permits) to foreigners who hold valid driver’s licenses from another country and who want to drive in Guatemala beyond their initial 30 day period in the country.

Permisos cost 30Q per month of validity, and are only issued for the duration of the applicant’s legal stay in Guatemala. When driving with a permiso, you’ll also end to carry your valid foreign driver’s license. You can obtain a permiso at:

Departamento de Transito

Galerias del Sur
Calzada Aguilar Batres 34-70, Zona 11
Tel. (502) 2320-4545
US Embassy in Guatemala

Gas Stations

Gas stations are found all across Guatemala. In Antigua proper, there are four: One at 4a Calle Oriente and 1a Avenida Norte, another a block away, in front of La Concepción Convent, a Shell Station in Santa Inés, on the road that leads to San Lucas, and a Texaco Station in front of Soleil Hotel, on the road that leads to Ciudad Vieja.

The vast majority of gas stations provide full service – in Antigua, all gas stations are full service. Gas stations close during the night. A liter of regular gasoline costs roughly 22Q (as of May 2018). High octane gas and diesel are widely available, and payment is possible by credit card or cash.

gas station antigua guatemala

There are four gas stations in Antigua, not a single traffic light

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Getting gas at a full service is easy. When you pull into the station, an attendant may direct you to a stall. Just park, open your window and shut off your car. Tell the attendant what kind of gas you want (e.g. “regular”), how much (e.g. “lleno” for a full tank) and how you will pay (e.g. “credit card”). He will ask for your NIT number (to fill out a receipt for tax purposes, which you can decline). Make sure the pump counter start at all zeroes.

The attendant may also offer to wash your windows, check your tires’ air pressure. They can also verify the vehicle’s oil levels if requested – attendants accept tips.

Parking

Parking in Antigua’s streets cost 10Q a day – you can buy the “marbete” (permit) from Municipal transit agents stationed at various points in town. If you’re driving a vehicle with foreign license plates, you won’t be required to purchase a parking permit. There are secure parking lots in town, each costing about 10Q an hour.

Parking is prohibited for vehicles where the curb is painted red, white (reserved for motorcycles), blue (reserved for the disabled), in front of garage entrances, and wherever there’s a no parking sign (“Prohibido Estacionar” – big E with a line through it). Don’t block driveways either, or your car may be towed.

Parking in Antigua Guatemala

Parking? Be prepared to pay the extortion fee

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If driving a car registered in Guatemala, you can obtain a “calcomania” (parking decal), which cancels the need to buy parking permits.

If you’re renting in Antigua, you can get the parking sticker at Mini-Tesorería Municipal (5a Calle Poniente #46, Centro Cultural Cesar Brañas), open Monday through Friday, from 8 am to 5 pm, and Saturdays, from 9 am to 12 pm. You’ll need the following documents:

  • Documento Personal de Identificación (DPI) or passport.
  • Rental contract for your living space, in your name.
  • “Tarjeta de circulación” (Vehicle registration card) in your name.
  • Boleto de Ornato 2017 (tax receipt) issued in Antigua Guatemala. The cost of this tax certificate is based on the applicant’s self-declared monthly income – the fee can be anywhere from 10Q to a max of 150Q.
  • Vehicle’s title in your name.

Car Minders

In Antigua, you’ll be almost sure to encounter the hated “cuidacarros” (car minders), people who’ll offer to help you park and will look after your vehicle for a fee.

Cuidacarros operate illegally – most prominently on weekends, often extorting drivers for fees as high as 50Q to ensure nothing “accidentally” happens to the car. Those who don’t pay the fee can expect to find that their car was broken into, or damage done to the paint and/or side mirrors.

There’s a plan in the works to rid the street of cuidacarros, but other than occasional spot checks by the Police, nothing has been conclusively resolved.

Notify local Police if accosted by a cuidacarro, or avoid them altogether by parking in a public lot.

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Want more tips about living in Antigua?

Check out the Living in Antigua section.

Central Park, Antigua Guatemala: Visitors Guide

Parque Central is as old as the city, but while everything in the city suggests that for once time stood still, this park continues to evolve. Today, it’s one of the best places to people-watch and a favorite meeting place for locals and tourists alike.

From the city’s inception, the plaza was designed to be the center of social life. For a long time, historians have thought that Italian architect Juan Bautista Antonelli designed the layout of the city – historical records cast doubt on this assertion – Antonelli never traveled to the Americas. In any event, the founders conceived the capital in the classical colonial Spanish design – the main plaza at the center of a grid layout.

Antigua Guatemala Central Park

Central Park, Antigua Guatemala

The Many Names of Parque Central

Parque Central, as it’s most commonly referred to nowadays, has had many other names. It was known from its inception as Plaza Mayor (Main Plaza), which denotes its importance compared to all other plazas. Also known as Plaza Real (Royal Plaza) because official celebrations and announcements took place here as well as public punishments and executions by hanging – later by firing squad.

Headquartered at the Palace of the Captain-Generals was a royal regiment known as the “Dragons,” consisting of 100 soldiers or so – the plaza was a convenient location for military exercises and parades, hence the name Plaza de Armas (Armaments Plaza).

The name Parque Central was a 20th-century designation when the local government changed the plaza into a garden-like setting, reminiscent of those found in Europe. The park once had statues of Greek goddesses placed throughout – later removed and some set in a small park near La Candelaria Church.

Antigua Guatemala Central Park

Fountain of the Sirens, Antigua Guatemala

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Evolution of the Plaza

Though a bit hard to envision now with all the trees surrounding it, try to imagine it as it was, almost 500 years ago. Just a barren, all-purpose dirt lot – no fountain (added later in 1617), only a water reservoir for horses and men alike off in the southwest corner (tank added in 1555).

The plaza at the time was a hub of activity, as sellers from all regions came to offer their wares in the newly established capital. Even in the post-colonial era, the plaza served as the city’s market well into the 20th century and as the main bus terminal.

Wisely, both the market and bus terminal relocated to the outskirts of the town in the later part of the 20th century.

Fountain of the Sirens

Architect Diego de Porres began the process that remade the was commissioned to build a new fountain, which he finished in 1738. De Porres installed the fountain at the center of the plaza.

Named “Fuente de las Sirenas” (Fountain of the Sirens), it earned praise for its design and craftsmanship. Reportedly, Porres was inspired by the Fountain of Neptune in Bologna, Italy.

While his first choice was to incorporate dolphins into the fountain’s design, he settled for water buffaloes instead – the architect wasn’t familiar enough with dolphins, and Google Image Search did not yet exist. You can spot the water buffaloes partly submerged under each siren. Get a full view on weekdays, when the fountain is emptied and cleaned.

Original sirens, Captains-Palace Museum

Original sirens, Captains-Palace Museum

The sirens now adorning Antigua Guatemala’s Parque Central were replaced in the mid-20th century. To see the original sirens in person, you’ll have to visit the museum at the Palacio de Los Capitanes-Generales, south of Parque Central.

The First Mercado

The market mentioned earlier was located on the plaza’s northern edge, facing Palacio del Ayuntamiento. Crude stalls called “cajones” – literally “big boxes,” sold all manner of produce, fruit, meats, and housewares – regatonas (female adjective for someone who haggles), manned these stalls. They made their money wheeling and dealing with merchants at the entrance to the city and reselling goods at the plaza.

The plaza continued to be the hub of commercial activity, especially after the earthquakes of 1773 when many buildings around the city were heavily damaged. The market grew so unwieldy and busy that it obstructed the circulation of carriages and laws were passed to address the situation.

fountain of the sirens antigua guatemala

New sirens, Parque Central

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In 1912, the market had moved a block away to the then-abandoned convent of Compañía de Jesús, which they occupied until the earthquakes of 1976 made the building unsafe.

The park was also the main bus stop for Guatemala City-bound buses until they were moved to the edge of town. In the early part of the mid-1900s, a kiosk, in the style of traditional Mexican plazas, was erected atop the fountain, later removed due to complaints from residents.

Plaza Mayor Antigua Guatemala

Easter decorations, Parque Central

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The Plaques of Parque Central

At the park, look for the plaque honoring Quirio Cataño, the southwestern corner, one of the city’s greatest sculptors of religious imagery.

On the side of the park nearest to the cathedral, look for a plaque – installed in 1946, commemorating the Antigua Guatemala – California avocado connection, as avocados were imported from here to give birth to California’s avocado industry.

Scientology, Antigua Guatemala

L. Ron Hubbard plaque, Antigua Guatemala

The latest addition to the park is an oddly out-of-place plaque paying homage to L. Ronald Hubbard, Scientology’s founder. Hubbard, as far as I know, never made it to Antigua. I also feel like mentioning – I’m sure it’s totally unrelated – that the Mayor of Antigua at the time, Adolfo Vivar, is currently in jail due to corruption and money laundering charges to the tune of almost $3 million dollars.

Why Lactating Sirens?

It’s common to find sirens used as decorative touches on fountains, doors and even church facades in Antigua – architect Diego de Porres was fond of them and popularized their use. However, the lactating sirens of Parque Central are said to have roots in Mayan folklore.

According to local legend, in this valley once lived a Mayan chieftain, Ataví Pamaxanque, – a fair and wise ruler according to his people. One day, as Pamaxanque made the rounds, he noticed a few babies crying. Inquiring as to why the children’s mothers weren’t tending to them, he learned that said mothers were refusing to breastfeed them. Enraged, he ordered the four women be tied with reeds, taken to the springs in the valley – where the park is now located, and be left to die as punishment, forever to serve as a warning to other mothers who dared refuse to look after their children’s well-being.

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See more activities here: https://okantigua.com/things-to-do-in-antigua-guatemala/

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