Valhalla Macadamia Farm: Visitors Guide

Macadamia Pancakes Valhalla Macadamia Farm Antigua guatemala

Let’s play a quick game of mental association. When I say “macadamia,” what comes to mind? If you’re like most people, it’ll probably be “Hawaii”. But did you know that macadamia trees are indigenous to Australia? Hawaii just happened to market macadamia nuts better than anyone else.

In fact, Hawaii now has to import macadamias from all over the world – from California and even Guatemala – to keep up with demand. One could, in theory, eat Guatemalan macadamia nuts that have been imported to Hawaii, then shipped to your local Walmart in the form of Hawaiian macadamia nuts.

How did I become a macadamia-savant? Well, it wasn’t because I went on a macadamia-induced Wikipedia binge. I learned the precious little bit I now know about macadamias after my visit last week to Valhalla Experimental Station, a macadamia farm, spa, and restaurant located on the outskirts of Antigua Guatemala – near San Miguel Dueñas to be exact.

Entrance to Valhalla

The History of Valhalla Macadamia Farm

The Valhalla Experimental Station is the brainchild of Lorenzo Gottschamer and Emilia Aguirre, the welcoming couple who owns the farm. My wife and I spoke at length with Emilia, who graciously showed us around a bit.

The couple has dedicated a good chunk of their lives to perfecting their genetic stock of organically-grown macadamia trees that are strongest and most naturally-suited to thrive in Guatemala.

It hasn’t always been easy – the couple lived in an Airstream trailer inside the property for over 15 years while they supervised – and did – much of the hands-on work of planting and processing macadamias. To learn more about their story, click here (opens new window).

Lorenzo and Emilia’s Old Home

Attractions at Valhalla

While Valhalla is a working farm, it does have attractions for tourists and local visitors.

It features a restaurant, a spa (open by appointment), and a small store that sells miscellaneous macadamia-related products, chief among them beauty products, as macadamia oil has been found to possess anti-aging properties. Visitors can get a free facial (tip not included) and try out their products.

Valhalla Oxygen Lounge Restaurant

Valhalla’s main draw is its restaurant, which offers breakfast and lunch options.

But to be honest, it’s all about the pancakes, which have bits of macadamia nuts, drizzled with creamy macadamia butter and topped with fresh blueberry marmalade – blueberries happen to be organically grown on on the farm.

Don’t be fooled – these pancakes will leave you stuffed!

They’ve also expanded their menu, adding macadamia-smoked BBQ, burgers, salads, pasta omelets and other goodies. Check out their menu options here.

Valhalla Wellness SPA

If you’re interested in a spa session – featuring luxurious yet affordable macadamia oils and creams – contact Valhalla directly, and they can arrange that for you (see prices here).

Valhalla Farm’s Spa

The visitors’ area grounds are delightful to walk around. In fact, if all you want to do is check out the farm and walk around for a bit, you’re welcome to do so. Bring a book if you want, find a spot in the shade and soak in the peaceful atmosphere. Plans to build bungalows are in the works.

Helping Local Communities

In addition to commercial ventures, the farm aims to provide local farmers with young macadamia trees at little or no-cost. The trees serve to encourage farmers to consume macadamias, which are rich in omega-7 and monosaturated fats. If farmers produce macadamias in enough quantities, they can sell macadamias for export. Valhalla – a certified macadamia grower – can process macadamias for farmers, which nets them a higher profit than if they sold their macadamias unprocessed.

A macadamia tree starts producing fruits in about two years on average, is disease-resistant and produces year round.

An added benefit of encouraging farmers to plant macadamia trees is that it prevents the use of slash-and-burn agriculture, which is prevalent here. This type of farming depletes the soil of nutrients and the expense of short-term crop gains.

Macadamia trees also supply ample firewood, making them even more attractive to locals.

To learn more about the farm and about the benefits of macadamias, click on any pic below to start the slideshow:

Valhalla Macadamia Farm Antigua guatemala — Free facials at Valhalla’s gift shop.

Getting To Valhalla

To get to Valhalla, catch a chicken bus bound for San Miguel Dueñas – they leave every 30 minutes from the main terminal. The trip is about 15-20 minutes and costs Q4 from Antigua. Just ask the driver to drop you off at the Macadamia farm.

Hours: Open daily from 8 am to 4:30 pm.

Email: info@valhallamacfarm.com

Phone: (502) 7831-5799 and (502) 5889-4925.

*****

Check out more fun stuff: https://okantigua.com/things-to-do-in-antigua-guatemala/

*****

Have you visited Valhalla yet?

Caoba Farms, Antigua Guatemala: Visitors Guide

Organic Farm Caoba Farms Antigua Guatemala

Contrary to what many people believe, not all fruits and vegetables found at Antigua’s Mercado are wholesome and organic. In fact, many crops are sprayed with a huge amount of pesticides – some claim that in Guatemala up to 40% more pesticides are used than actually necessary.

That is the reason why we wash all our fruits and vegetables at home very thoroughly before eating them. But that still leaves one exposed to all the chemical fertilizers used to grow the crops. So, what to do?

Caoba Farms in Antigua Guatemala

Organic Produce Store

Fortunately, there’s a growing awareness in Antigua about the importance of using sustainable, organic farming techniques.

This week, I visited Caoba Farms, an organic farm that provides restaurants and locals with many vegetables (such as arugula) that aren’t available anywhere else, as well as standard products.

Caoba Farms’ Store and Offices

I came away very impressed with their operation. Caoba Farms produces most of the items they sell, including honey, free-range meat, and of course, fruits and vegetables. I was surprised to find they even had chemical-free dog food available for sale. Their prices are reasonable, and they even deliver as far as Lake Atitlan.

I also liked that all their produce is thoroughly washed with filtered water before packaging (see photo gallery). To place an order, call 7832-9201 or 5203-8473.

Wide Selection of Produce and Items

How to Volunteer at Caoba Farms

Caoba Farms also accepts volunteers, which work alongside paid staff. If you want to learn more about organic farming – and get paid in veggies – Caoba Farms is worth checking out. You get a bag of vegetables for three hours of work – it starts at 9 am sharp. Some of the tasks include pulling weeds, cleaning animal yards, planting seedlings, turning compost, and harvesting seeds. you can see their volunteer schedule here.

If you’re interested in volunteering, email them at farmscaoba@gmail.com or call them at 5685-7286.

Guided Tours

They also offer guided tours for 60Q, which last an hour to an hour and a half. For 135Q the tour concludes with a meal. See more info here.

There’s also an introductory course to permaculture, which lasts 3 days, and costs 1,150Q – lunch included. Contact them for course dates.

Tours start when the shuttle picks up passengers – Tuesdays and Thursdays at 3 p.m and Saturdays at 10 a.m. Email info@caobafarms.com for details.

Caoba Nights (Thursdays)

This is geared more towards adults, but kids are welcome. There’s live music, a large selection of craft beers, plus board games and other games (cornhole or toss, depending on where you come from).

There’s a free shuttle, which departs from Tanque de la Union (2a Avenida Sur and 6a Avenida Oriente) every half hour, starting at 6 pm.

Farmers Market (Saturdays)

Caoba Farms hosts a Farmers Market every Saturday with live music, art exhibits, organic food and drinks, games, and workshops.

There are free shuttles to the farm starting at 9 am from Tanque de la Union (2a Avenida Sur).

Activities For Kids (Sundays)

If you’re looking for a place to have lunch with your kids, Caoba has you covered. They offer free activities from 11:30 am to 2 pm, while you sit down for a relaxed meal or have a drink at the cafe. There’s often live music as well.

Yoga Classes (Thursdays and Sundays)

If you’re in the mood, Caoba has yoga classes every Thursday from 5 pm to 6 pm and Sundays from 10 am to 11:15 am. A donation of 30Q is suggested.

Flea Market (First Sunday of Every Month)

Whether you want to buy or sell your second-hand items, you can visit Caoba on the first Sunday of every month. It’s a fun atmosphere, as there is live music, and food and crafts vendors as well.

Photos of the Farm

Click on any pic to open gallery:

Organic Food Caoba Farms Antigua Guatemala — Prices as of 5/6/2014 – Call Caoba Farms for Latest

Organic Meat Caoba Farms Antigua Guatemala — Free Range Birds are Fed Organic Food

Organic Honey Caoba Farms Antigua Guatemala — Caoba Farms Produces Honey

Organic Seeds Caoba Farms Antigua Guatemala — Seeds are Also Available for Sale

Organic Quinoa Caoba Farms Antigua Guatemala — Quinoa is Very Popular Here

Organic Produce Caoba Farms Antigua Guatemala — Organic Chile Peppers

Location Map (Walking Directions)

*****

More activities here: https://okantigua.com/things-to-do-in-antigua-guatemala/

*****

Have you shopped at Caoba Farms?

What was your experience like?

Best Tamales and Guatemalan Cuisine in Antigua

Not long ago, as I walked by an outdoor cafe – which will remain unnamed, I saw something that made me cringe. I noticed a young man, one who fit the profile of a tourist, staring at the plate in front of him, his right hand gripping a fork. There was doubt in his eyes, and I could almost read the thought bubble forming above his head.

He seemed to be pondering “Should I go with my innate survival instincts and throw this thing in the trash, or should I soldier on in the name of ‘cultural enlightenment’?”. For that guy’s sake, I hope that fighting his way through finishing a dry, unappealing tamale didn’t permanently convince him never to try one again. And I know that it can happen because it almost did to me.

My Initial Experience with Guatemalan Cuisine

For months after I arrived in Guatemala, you couldn’t pay me to eat a tamale – or a tortilla, for that matter. My wife, in her enthusiasm to get me to try traditional Guatemalan food, bought me tamales from a street vendor in Guatemala City– it did not go well, like the one I tried, I found to be almost inedible. “If this is what tamales are like,” I thought, “I want no part of them.” Same with the terrible tortillas she bought next door to the condo she lived at in the city.

Eventually, I gave tamales another try at a house I was staying at. Since it was Christmastime, and out of forced courtesy, I made another attempt. This time around I found them infinitely more enjoyable. A similar thing happened with corn tortillas. I learned that, unsurprisingly, they happen to taste a whole lot better when they’re fresh off the comal (grill).

Why do I share these stories? Because it would be unfortunate if you were to dismiss Guatemalan cuisine as insipid – or even gross – based on a bad experience with a street vendor, or at one of the well-known típico (traditional) restaurants in town. This happened to a friend who tried Pepián, a type of Guatemalan beef stew, at one of the pricey típico restaurants, only to end up highly disappointed in the experience. I’m sure Bill Clinton isn’t dying to come back there to eat Pepián, or tamales if his experience was anything like my friend’s.

Los Tres Tiempos, a New Tipico Restaurant in Antigua

Now, that isn’t to say you’ll have a bad meal at one of these fancy restaurants. I’ve heard great things about the food at Los Tres Tiempos (5th Avenida Norte #31). The decor is beautiful and one of my favorite of all restaurants in Antigua.

One advantage of traditional restaurants that cater to tourists is that you’ll probably enjoy higher standards of cleanliness from their kitchens – though I wouldn’t necessarily bet my money on it. If you’re a tourist that hasn’t weaned yourself from the “I must eat at a restaurant chain” mindset, you’ll probably recoil at some of the places I’ve eaten at. But if you’ve been here for any decent length of time, and provided your stomach has developed the requisite bug-resistance, your experience with Guatemalan cuisine will be far more enjoyable elsewhere.

Something that does bug me a bit is what I consider the price gouging that goes on at some of these places. Sure, to a tourist, the difference between eating authentic Guatemalan dishes and warmed over, mass-produced “authentic” meals might be $1USD of $2USD per dish. But it’s a pet-peeve nonetheless. Traditional Guatemalan food isn’t supposed to be expensive. And the secret is that the best places to try the best dishes aren’t. You’ll be gouged for $10 for a Guatemalan taco at Casa Santo Domingo that can be had on a street corner of 5Q ($0.60) – I’m not exagerating in the least.

Ingredients for traditional Guatemalan dishes are often quite simple, inexpensive and readily available. Paying through the nose for a tamal at a restaurant seems obscene – to me at least, considering the going rate locals pay for an outstanding tamal is about Q5. In fact, the best tamales I’ve had to date are made by a grandmother near where we live, in small batches, and sold at a table she sets up in front of her home. Cost? Just Q3 each. Take a look at one below.

Homemade Tamale

Same with chuchitos, which are slightly similar to tamales, and which we buy at Q2.50 each. I saw a local típico restaurant advertising them for Q10 each, minimum order of two. Want to try a tamal? That’ll be Q30+ for you Mr. Gringo. Can’t say I blame them, though. Retail space in Antigua – especially on Arco Street – is mighty expensive.

Where to Get Great, Authentic Guatemalan Food

So how can you find great, homemade tamales, or Guatemalan cuisine and not get ripped off in the process? Like anything else. Ask the locals.

For example, most locals will tell you that the best, most authentic Guatemalan dishes can be found at the small comedores near San Felipe, a town about five minutes north of Antigua. In fact, go any given Saturday, and you’ll see the parking lot in front of San Felipe Church (below) stacked with very expensive-looking SUVs. These are driven by nicely-dressed people from Guatemala City, who’ve made the trek here (more than an hour long, mind you) just to enjoy a true atol de maiz (corn-based drink) and other treats. Sitting on plastic benches, at tables adorned with plastic liners is part of the experience.

There are plenty of good places to eat food here, around the church, and in the back of the market across the street. Look for Comedor San Felipe, the humble restaurant belonging to “La Negrita” (the Little Black Lady), as she’s known locally. Good Guatemalan food cooked over wood.

San Felipe Church – Come here on Saturdays

Finding Good Tamales in Antigua

There’s an easy way to find homemade tamales – usually sold only on Saturdays. Look for a red Chinese-type lantern hanging by the front door, which is an invitation to knock and ask for tamales. If there are tamales available for sale, the lamp will be on. Feel free to knock on the door at that time.

Also, don’t forget to pick up a fila de Frances (row of French bread), which is the side dish, or sliced bread. According to my wife, coffee, or even hot chocolate, is the appropriate accompanying beverage, though, at Christmastime, the traditional drink to pair with tamales will be ponche, a hot, pineapple-based drink. So far, coke-type soft drinks have worked well for me.

There are a few places I can personally recommend to get great tamales. If buying tamales for lunch, head to San Antonio Bakery – the one by 4ta Calle Oriente, about a block away from the entrance to Antigua where the cobblestone streets begin. Get there by 11 AM. They have chicken and pork tamales of the colorado variety (the most common one, which is covered with a red tomato-based sauce known as recado).

If for dinner, head to the painted gree on 6a Calle Poniente #62, a few steps away from Calzada Santa Lucia. The grandmotherly lady starts selling them at 4 PM.

I love the paches and tamales (both red and the harder to find sweet black tamales) from Doña Chuz. She’s been selling them for years at the corner of 1a Calle Poniente and 7a Avenida Norte.

If on the other side of Antigua, head to the small comedor on 1st Avenida Norte, between 1st Calle Oriente and 2da Calle Oriente. They have great tamales available every Saturday, plus other tipico eats.

Homemade Tamales in Antigua

If you’re looking for a sit-down experience and don’t want to make the 5-minute trip to San Felipe, Cafe Tonita (1a Calle Poniente #22) is a good option. You can also try dishes like revolcado (pig brain stew). La Canche (6a Avenida Norte #42, has good pepian.

Cafe Tonita – Brain stew anyone?

Expect to pay a bit more here, but nowhere near what you’ll pay at the white-tablecloth places and possible orders of magnitude better food.

*****

More typical food here: https://okantigua.com/guatemalan-food-and-dishes/

*****

What are your favorite places to eat

homemade Guatemalan food?

Cost Of Living In Antigua Guatemala On A $500 Budget

One question I constantly get via email is how does my family of three manage to keep their cost of living in Antigua Guatemala under $500 a month. No, that is not a typo. In fact, more often than not, our expenses regularly come in lower than that.

Before I delve into how we do it, here’s something I need to clear up right away. Our lifestyles (whether yours or mine) depend on the choices we make and our definition of comfort. You may think we live grand – or live in a dump – based on your definition of happiness. And that’s fine. Everyone has their map of the world that they interpret according to what they see in it.

But let’s be clear about something. Somebody, somewhere, thinks you live like a pauper. So please, unless you’re Bill Gates, Warren Buffet, or a child of the Walton family clan, if you’re reading this from your high-horse, please be kind, get off it, and tie it to the post at the front door.

In any country (yes, that includes the US) you can find a broad range of living conditions. Depending on where you live, rental prices in Antigua will seem to be a bargain, or maybe even expensive. It all hinges whether you’re comparing real estate prices to those in Omaha or Manhattan.

In Central America, especially in places popular and readily available to tourists, like Antigua, it’s not difficult to recreate a lifestyle that closely resembles that of the US. Immense houses with beautiful courtyards are not hard to find if you’ve got $1,500USD a month to spare. There are enough restaurants here that you can eat out every day at a different place and not have to eat at the same location twice in a calendar year. That said, not everybody can afford – or wants to – spend money like a drunken sailor.

So, what do you do if you, like me, are building a business on the side, income is tight and have a family to feed? Same thing anyone would do, from Antigua to Zimbabwe, set a budget and live within your means. So how do we do it? Easy. We try to live like most of the locals do and leave the touristy lifestyle to the tourists.

That doesn’t mean we live like recluses, penny-pinching at every opportunity. But it’s far more affordable to live well here than it would be to do the same in a First-World country. The fact that we live near one of the most beautiful, walkable colonial cities in the world is just a bonus.

So, for those of you interested in how to live on a tight, yet affordable budget in Central America, read on.

Housing Costs

Q1,000 ($125USD)

This is the big-ticket item. Most people that come to live in Antigua want to have a place to live before arriving in town – this is usually a mistake. Why? Because most properties marketed online are priced with a loaded foreigner’s fat wallet in mind. The best deals to be had are found not through real estate agencies, but through word-of-mouth and getting a feel for the place so you can bargain accordingly.

Our rent is $125USD. We found this brand-new condo after living here for a year and getting to know the area. Why so cheap? For one, it was unfurnished and in a place tourists, and most expats have no idea it exists. Sure, it’s small, but it suits us fine. Plus, you can’t beat the views of Antigua’s valley. Click to see my video of Antigua’s New Year’s Fireworks here. If you want pictures of the house and community we live in, click here and here (new windows).

View from our Condo on New Year’s Day

If you want to live right in Antigua center, you’ll have to pay accordingly. We don’t mind living less than 10 minutes away to save hundreds of dollars. If being able to walk outside your door and be in the middle of everything is your thing, that’s fine with me. Just don’t expect it to come cheap.

Utilities

Q367.5 ($46USD)

Electricity is expensive in Guatemala. At least compared to what I was used to paying in the US. Fortunately, Antigua, unlike many other highly touted beach-side destinations (think some locations in Belize or Panama) is 5,000+ meters feet (thanks, Tim) above sea level, which is conducive to perfect, spring-like weather almost year-round. Don’t need heating, don’t need air conditioners either.

We switched all our light bulbs with energy-efficient ones, and our electricity bill has yet to top Q100 ($12.50USD) in many months – Q99.59 was the latest one. We don’t have a central water heater – only a shower-head heater – which cut at least Q300 from our previous bills elsewhere. Look into gas-powered heaters if hot water in every faucet is something that matters to you.

Water service, trash pickup, and maintenance fees total Q200 ($25USD). We use a small gas tank for cooking. The gas company delivers a full one when we run out – usually every other month – and the last 25lb refill costs us Q135 ($17USD), which is rather on the high side. We’ve purchased refills as low as Q95, but that varies seasonally. Since gas is a bi-monthly expense, I’ll add half the cost to the budget total listed on the Utilities heading (Q67.50).

Transportation

Q400 ($50USD)

We spent much more on transportation back when I had a V6 Jeep. Gas is expensive here, costing close to $5USD a gallon. These days, we walk a lot more. I can say that finally losing those 40 extra pounds (yes, forty!) has been worth it.

Since I work from home, I don’t need to go out as much, unless there’s a special event, church to attend to, people to meet, or festivities in town. My wife also volunteers regularly at Campos de Suenos. Public transportation is relatively efficient and inexpensive. Fare around town is about Q3 ($0.37) one way. Occasionally, we’ll go down to Guatemala City to visit relatives or for medical appointments. In that case, bus fare is Q10 ($1.13USD) one way. Monthly expenses, give or take a few quetzals are around Q400 ($50USD).

Internet

Q200 ($25)

Most people rely on Internet provided by the homeowner. If that’s not available, you may have to set up your service, through Claro, the local phone company, something that isn’t complicated.

I now rely on one of the infamous Tigo modems, which work out well for most tasks. If I need to do a video interview (like today) or carry on a Skype video conversation, it’s much more cost-effective to head to an Internet café. If I need to do research or upload/download huge files, I head over to the public library in front of the park.

School

Q125 ($16USD)

School tuition varies wildly, and it hinges on your expectations. On the high end, you can expect to pay $600USD a month at a school like AIS or close to $100 a month at one of the many private schools in Antigua. On the cheap end are the free public schools – often lacking in every measurable metric.

Currently, our daughter is enrolled in a semi-private school, run by the city. It’s only Q100 a month and offers English and computer classes. To be on the safe side, we do our homeschooling curriculum on the side. There are added expenses, like uniforms and books, but spread out over the school year, I’d say it’s about Q500.

Food

Q1,000 ($125USD)

This is the biggest variable. It depends on where you shop and what your diet is like.

We eat fresh chicken, meat, veggies, eggs, and fruits regularly. A whole, a 4-pound chicken, goes for slightly under Q50 ($6.25USD), fresh fish for Q15 (under $2) a pound, pork and beef regularly goes for about Q20-Q25 ($2.50 – $3.00USD) a pound if you buy from the local butcher. Expect to pay more at the supermarket for everything else. We eat tortillas, freshly baked bread, and indulge in the occasional tamale or chuchito. Rarely, if ever, do we go to the local McDonalds, preferring instead to cook up our own, tastier burgers at home. Our coal-powered grill sees frequent use.

To give you a conservative ballpark figure, I’m willing to bet we spend less than Q250 ($31.25USD) a week in food and eating out, all fresh food, nothing canned or junk food. This leaves plenty to eat out at a sit-down restaurant once or twice a month, should we choose to.

Entertainment

Q100 ($12.50USD)

I’m being generous with this one. There’s plenty to do in Antigua and many ongoing activities where one doesn’t have to spend a penny. This week, for example, there was a car show on Calle del Arco sponsored by the BMW Car Club of Guatemala. Free and a good way to spend an hour doing something different.

Free Car show in Antigua

If you want something to do, entertainment isn’t hard to find, both free and for a fee. If you’re a homebody, you can find movies at the Mercado for Q5 and settle in for movie night. Many cafés (Bagel Barn, for example) and some restaurants have free movie nights. Dinner and a movie can be done very cheaply here.

Medical Expenses

Q200 ($25USD)

This is another one that’s highly dependent on your situation. We don’t have insurance, preferring to pay out-of-pocket for medical visits instead.

A visit to the Doctor will cost about Q200 ($25USD). If I were to set aside that amount a month for medical emergencies, it would just about cover any emergency and then some. But again, this will depend on your situation. Suffice it to say that medical care in Guatemala is inexpensive and of excellent quality, even when out-of-pocket. I’ll add it to the total, even though we rarely spend money going to the doctor.

And the total is:

Being generous with my estimates and wildly overshooting on some (like medical costs), out budget total is $449.50 – this leaves us with $50USD every month to buy clothes (which we don’t have to buy every month), school materials, and other odds and ends. Sometimes the budget will be much less than this, other times it will be more, but $500USD about covers all our regular monthly expenses.

Is this doable for everyone? Of course not. Some people spend more than that on rent alone. Could a single person live here on less than that? I don’t see why not.

If you’ve got the money, you can live here (or anywhere, really), as comfortably as anyone in a First World country. Maybe even better, since maid service is affordable and often costs less than $250 a month for full-time service.

*****

What’s Your Antigua Budget Like?

Share below!

Visa Run: Antigua Guatemala to San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico

san cristobal de las casas mexico visa renewal

They say time flies when you’re having fun. It seems like it was just a couple months ago I had just completed my first visa run to Mexico. Six months later, it was time to do it again, though this time I decide I might as well have fun with it.

On my last border run, I’d chosen Tapachula, Mexico, a somewhat rough border town, on the grounds that it was fairly easy to get to and not far from the Guatemalan border. As far as amenities or my personal interests, it left a lot to be desired.

For the upcoming trip I wanted a more interesting place, which is how discovered San Cristobal de las Casas, a beautiful colonial city in Mexico that looked to be a far more promising destination than Tapachula could ever hope to be.

Cathedral, San Cristobal de las Casas

I discovered that to get to San Cristobal, from Antigua, I’d have to either pay for a shuttle or chicken bus myself the entire way. Because I’m a glutton for punishment (or a cheapskate), I chose to make the trek via public transportation. This proved to be a fateful decision since it led to a series of events that made the trip far longer – and agonizing – than it should’ve been.

Here’s a travel tip for all you day trippers out there: While in Guatemala, it’s usually a good idea to check the news before you leave the house, especially if you’re traveling cross-country. Strikes, landslides, accidents, and other occurrences are not uncommon, so it pays to find out if the coast is clear before you leave the house, for when you decide to seek an alternate route.

I learned this firsthand the first time I traveled to Peten, to see the Tikal pyramids, only to find the city of Flores under siege and tanks rolling through town because of a drug-related massacre that had occurred in a nearby ranch. In fact, a local remarked to me what a bad idea it had been to bring the family over, that I should’ve known because it was all over TV and the newspapers that entire week. I was puzzled because neither CNN or Drudge Report had made a mention about any of this all week. I kid…

The second time, on a planned trip to Belize, I avoided getting caught in a massive, workers’ strike-related jam because I turned on the TV before leaving and learned about it before I left the house. Postponing the trip for the next day saved me a lot of aggravation and lost time.This time, I played it cool and figured nothing would happen… But something did happen, or was going to. Turns out there was a massive, nationwide teachers’ strike scheduled for that day, which would block roads at every turn.

Unfortunately, I didn’t give myself enough room to reschedule. Because of reasons beyond my control, I had waited until the last possible day to leave Antigua, on the exact day my visa was about to expire. So I was locked in to make it across the border at day no matter what. I left the house at 7:30 am and didn’t arrive in San Cristobal until 12:30 am, a grueling 16-hour trip that really should’ve been half as long with a little more careful planning.

Getting to San Cristobal de Las Casas from Antigua

The journey to San Cristobal via local buses is not complicated. The real issue is timing.

In Mexico, buses travel at nearly every hour to and from destinations. In Guatemala, it’s the opposite. Many bus routes don’t run after sundown and if you miss a connection, you’re stuck wherever along the route you decide to get off the bus.

Here’s the short version of what buses you have to take to make it there and back as cheaply, safely and efficiently as possible:

1a- Option 1: Antigua to San Lucas (Q5 – 25 minutes)

Catch the Guatemala-bound bus at Antigua’s terminal. Exit it at the first stop in San Lucas, right as the bus joins highway CA-1. Look for the huge pedestrian bridge and cross to the other side.

San Lucas Bus Stop

Bus Stopped on CA-1 Because of Roadblocks. Got off and Had Lunch Right in the Middle of the Highway.

Traffic Started Moving 30 Minutes Later and Quickly Jumped Back on Bus.

1b – Option 2: Antigua to Chimaltenango (Q5 – 45 minutes).

Chimaltenango-bound buses leave Antigua’s terminal less frequently and take a little longer. The advantage is that you’ll be a little further ahead when you reach the main highway. Exit the bus right before it crosses under the highway CA-1 bypass bridge. Cross the two-lane highway on foot and wait for your connecting bus on the other side.

I feel less safe here than at the San Lucas bus stop, but you should be fine if you’re there early in the morning and before dusk. It’ll be Q5 cheaper if leaving from here instead of San Lucas.

2a – Option 1: Quetzaltenango (Xela) bound bus to Cuatro Caminos stop (Q30 – 1:45 hours if leaving from San Lucas, Q25 and about 1:30 hours if leaving from Chimaltenango).

If you took this option, skip to step #3.

Cuatro Caminos Bus Stop

***Note: You could go all the way to Xela and board a HueHue bound bus there, but you’d be wasting an hour (30 minutes getting into Xela’s bus terminal, 30 minutes getting out). Much better to get off the bus at the busy Cuatro Caminos intersection and take a Hue Hue bound bus to save time. Plus, it saves you Q10 in fare by not taking the direct HueHue bus at San Lucas.***

Because of Traffic Roadblocks, the Bus Took a Detour to Salcaja, a Small Town near Xela – a rare occurrence

2b – Option 2: Huehuetenango (Hue Hue) bound bus to Las Vegas stop (Q60 3.5 hours). If you took this option, don’t go all the way to Hue Hue. Read on to learn why.

3 – Cuatro Caminos to Las Vegas (Q20 – 1:45 hours).

Las Vegas – the name fits in an ironic way – is a dusty, busy triangle-shaped intersection. It’s here where Huehuetenango-bound buses take a detour from the main highway into the city of HueHue. To save time and the inevitable wait for passengers at HueHue, ask to get off at this intersection. For your reference, it’s flanked by a Texaco gas station. Cross the busy highway and wait for a HueHue to La Mesilla bus.

***Note: You won’t see any casinos, pyramids, or Wayne Newton in Las Vegas, Guatemala. Fairly boring intersection, not a neon sign to be found anywhere. The reason you want to step off the bus here is that you’d be wasting an hour getting in and out of Hue Hue, only to come back through the Las Vegas intersection again.***

4 – Las Vegas to La Mesilla border town (Q20 – 2 hours).

This is my favorite part of the trip. Make sure you sit by the window (driver’s side) to catch beautiful views of the canyon and for a glimpse at the life of local Mayans – Mam language is spoken here, which is very different from Kaqchikel (Antigua area) and Tz’utujil (Lake Atitlan area). You may even get lucky and see the men of Todos Santos Cuchumatan, who are easy to spot due to their hats and distinctive red pants.

At La Mesilla terminal, as soon as you get off the bus, you’ll be approached by money changers. Have an idea what the going rate is (check at XE.com before you leave) and change enough quetzals into Mexican pesos to pay for the buses at least. Banks won’t change money, so your best bet once you cross the border are the money changers or ATMs.

Main street at La Mesilla

From Mesilla’s bus terminal, take a right on the main street and walk downhill towards the border. It’s an easy 15-minute walk downhill. Fairly safe too, as the street is lined on both sides with stalls selling trinkets and cheap goods. Don’t worry about the fork in the road when you get to it, as both streets join again a tenth of a mile later.

La Mesilla Border Crossing – Immigration Building Underneath “Have a Nice Trip” Sign

The border crossing is fairly relaxed. Guatemalan immigration offices are next to the entrance into Mexico, in a small building to the left as you walk towards Mexico. Walk in, hand your passport to the immigration of official, and if everything checks out, you’ll be done in less than five minutes (make sure your stamp has the correct date and that it indicated you’re leaving the country (salida).

In Mexico

The Mexican immigration building isn’t located across the border, oddly enough. It’s 10-minutes away (via bus) in nearby Ciudad Cuauhtémoc. No, you don’t want to walk there. And yes, I asked.

Look for a colectivo, small minibusses, which leave every 15 minutes or so, or the orange taxis on the left. The fare is MX$10. Occasionally, one of the orange taxis will take on passengers and you can take a shared ride for MX$10. Make sure it’s a shared ride and not a private cab, which is completely unnecessary and costs MX$40.

Mexico’s Colectivo Buses – No, those aren’t gunshots on the windshield

The bus/cab ride lasts about 10 minutes and you’ll be dropped off at the immigration building in Ciudad Cuauhtémoc. The building, which will be on your right when coming from Guatemala, is quite big and hard to miss. I’m fact, it’s the biggest man-made structure you’ll encounter for miles.

Once here, head into the immigration office, fill out a form and have your passport stamped. There are no fees for stays lasting less than seven days. Paperwork taken care of, it’s time to hit the road. There are two transportation options here.

Option 1: Take a small colectivo bus, which leaves usually every half hour or so, to Comitan, a town that lies roughly halfway between the Mexico/Guatemala border and San Cristobal. This bus costs MX$50 and the ride lasts 1:30 hours. At Comitan, the same colectivo company will drop you off at their private station, where you can take another colectivo minibus to San Cristobal (MX$60 – 2 hours).

Option 2: Take an OCC bus to San Cristobal. The terminal is right across the street from the immigration office. OCC buses are huge tour buses with reclining seats and TVs. Cost is MX$118, plus an MX$8 insurance surcharge. While these buses are comfortable, they’re not really worth the added cost for a short journey. They don’t save a lot of time either, if any, as the colectivo buses run on a much faster schedule.

OCC Bus Arrives at Terminal 1:30 Hour Late – Had bought ticket, so I was stuck waiting.

Once you get to San Cristobal, you’ll be dropped off at the OCC bus station or nearby. From here, it’s a 5-10 minute walk into the center of town.

*******************************

Lowest total cost one way: Q70 – Q75 from Antigua to the border, MX$110 (Q50) from border to San Cristobal, for a total of Q130, or about US$19.

From San Cristobal to Antigua

Returning to Antigua is the same journey, but I’m reverse. But with one major caveat.

Unlike Mexico, Guatemala’s public transportation is far less organized. The last chicken bus leaving from Hue Hue to Guatemala leaves at around 5:30 pm. Should you arrive late and miss this bus, you’ll be able to get as far as Xela, where you’ll be able to find reasonable accommodations – unless you don’t mind finding a place to stay in Hue Hue.

Generally, it’s not a good idea to ride public transportation at night in Guatemala. As long as you leave San Cristobal by 7 am and not happen to run into any weird snags, you should be able to arrive in Antigua while daylight still shines. Not a guarantee, but the sooner you leave San Cristobal in the morning, the better your odds.

Other than that, I had a great time in San Cristobal and will dedicate a separate post to my stay there. It’s a beautiful city (designated as a “magical town” by the Mexican government), about 4-5 times bigger than Antigua and with a lot more in the way of entertainment and food options and a decidedly European flair (there’s a Burger King and a Subway in town, though no McDonalds, as the three days of public protests put an end to Ronald’s plans a few years ago, according to a local I talked to).

Here are some San Cristobal pics to give you a small sample.

*****

Have you visited San Cristobal de las Casas?

Did you enjoy the visit?