7 Reasons Why Antigua Guatemala Is Expat Heaven

When I first arrived in Guatemala about a year ago, I had a small idea of what to expect. It’s quite a leap to move from a mostly wealthy suburb in the US to the seemingly chaotic pace of a Central American country, where I was constantly told there would be danger lurking around every corner. It’s not an easy transition for most Guatemala expats.

It turns out those fears were highly inflated. Perception, from afar, is not reality, and just as I wouldn’t choose to live in Camden, New Jersey, or Detroit, Michigan, there are places in Guatemala one would be well-advised to stay away. That is why I chose Antigua Guatemala as my home-base for exploration, and couldn’t be happier about it.

Antigua Guatemala as an expat destination checks all the boxes for me. It has:

Antigua Guatemala’s Selling Points

#1 – Wonderful Weather

Dubbed the “City of Eternal Spring,” Antigua boasts year-round temperatures that average in the 70s, which makes the use of A/C or heaters unnecessary. There’s a rainy season that runs from May to November, though the rains are mostly an afternoon event and not an all-day occurrence.

San Jose Cathedral (left), Agua volcano (center), Parque Central (right)

Tanque de la Unión, a public wash basin

#2 – Great Restaurants

Almost every type of cuisine is represented here. Argentinian food? It’s here. Japanese, Indian, German, even Danish? Yup. Seafood is also easy to find (try ceviche (seafood dish) with a cold brew on a hot day… delicious!) Guatemala expats have plenty of options should they become homesick.

Antigua is also a great place to sample some of Guatemala’s best local food. San Felipe, a town within walking distance of Antigua, is a great spot to try favorite Guatemalan street food, like tamales, chuchitos, tostadas, enchiladas, rellenitos, and atoles, the last being a favorite hot beverage made from ground corn.

#3 – Safety

Police presence is very visible here. Because Antigua Guatemala is such a draw for tourism, the government has a vested interest in continuing to keep it safe for tourists that land here. Very rarely do I feel uncomfortable walking the streets at night.

It helps that Antigua has its own Tourism Police (PROATUR), in addition to Guatemala’s National Police.

Parque Central at night

San Jose Cathedral at night

#4 – Beauty

As a UNESCO Heritage Site, Antigua has been protected from overzealous investors. The local government has exercised good care to keep the city in the most pristine state possible. You won’t find a building higher than three stories here, which preserves the magnificent views of the volcanoes for everyone to enjoy. You won’t find gaudy neon signs either, and loud music is well-regulated. In fact, blasting your car horn inside the city is forbidden.

View of Antigua from Cerro de la Cruz

La Merced Church

Compañia de Jesús Convent ruins

#5 – Nearby International Airport

Antigua Guatemala is about 45 minutes away from Guatemala City, which makes flights into/out of the country relatively painless Guatemala expats. Shuttles from Antigua to La Aurora airport are available for about $10 (~80Q). A roundtrip taxi ride to the city will cost about Q500 ($60).

#6 – Easy Internet Access

Awarded the moniker “Digital City,” Antigua has an advantage that because it’s close to Guatemala City, technology makes its way here relatively quickly. Fast Internet speeds of up to 10 Mbps are available here. The Impact Hub co-working space offers a modern, physical office space.

#7 – Culturally Lively

There’s plenty of events going on every week, and live music is easy to find. There are cultural activities on the calendar every month; from religious processions to free concerts, there’s something for everyone.

It’s also a kid-friendly city, and the Spanish Cultural Center (CFCE) has enough free activities on the weekends (puppet shows, movies, plays, etc.) to keep the little ones entertained.

Jugglers, Cooperación Española

Free shows for children, Cooperación Española

Guatemala’s National Ballet Company

Free cultural activities

For these reasons and others (low-cost of food, housing, medical care and relative ease of doing business) I wholeheartedly recommend Antigua Guatemala as an option for short-term and long-term living for Guatemala expats.

*****

Thinking about living in Antigua?

Check out the Living in Antigua Guatemala Guide!

Guatemalan Christmas And New Years Traditions: Posadas

On my earlier post about holiday festivities in Guatemala, I had grumbled about how Americanized the whole thing was turning out to be. I’m glad to report that the first experience was the exception to the rule.

In the US, Christmas means mostly one thing: holiday shopping. Pursuing the best deals and completing arm-length shopping lists is the name of the sport.

A backlash against the lemming-like tradition of saturating shopping malls over-capacity has steadily grown over the years. These rebels have refused to follow their marching orders blasted via TV and radio to the masses. These rebels now do their frantic shopping online.

While there’s certainly an attempt by retailers in Guatemala to get people to the stores at Christmas time, I was pleasantly surprised this did not seem to be the all-consuming purpose of Christmas. In Guatemala, Christmas is still strongly rooted in tradition and a bonding of family over Christmas dinner. Gifts were almost an afterthought, except for children.

Not once did I ever hear anything regarding a “War on Christmas”, or the appropriateness or sensitiveness of a Christian nativity scene, of which there were many. The word “navidad” (Christmas) is still very much part of the vocabulary and “Felices feriados!” (Happy holidays!) is not exactly a suitable replacement.

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day

I was fortunate to spend Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with a wonderful Guatemalan family who made me, a complete stranger, feel more than welcome in their home. I enjoyed ponche (Guatemala’s Christmastime hot fruit punch), tamales, and great roasted pork.

I also saw an awesome nativity scene, which many families take great pride in assembling inside their homes every year. Pictures don’t do it justice. It even featured a running waterfall!

Guatemala’s popular nativity scenes

Guatemalan Posadas

Religious customs also play a big role in the celebration of Christmas. One such custom is that of “posadas” (shelter). It’s sort of a mini-religious procession reenacting Joseph and Mary’s journey to Bethlehem, as they sought shelter there to comply with the King’s census request.Many people like to join, as the host of the posada often prepares drinks and food (usually

Many people like to join, as the host of the posada often prepares drinks and food (usually ponche and tamales) for the members of the visiting posada.

I encountered many posadas making the rounds and they always brought a smile to my face, even when it meant the street was now blocked and I’d have to find another way around to my destination.

Small town posada

New Year’s Fireworks in Antigua Guatemala

For New Year’s Eve, our family decided to have a special dinner at home.

Christmas dinner at home – no tamales or ponches here

At around 10 p.m., we headed to Antigua to await the new year.

While the streets were busier than usual, the crowds were not nearly as big as those that gather here during Holy Week.

The bars around the park were packed with tourists and they spilled out on the street. Most people walked around, taking in the sights of an Antigua decked in white Christmas lights.

There were two places set up for people to wait for 2013’s arrival. The place most people naturally gravitated to was Arco Santa Catalina.

People waiting for midnight

While the Arco looked great, I felt it was too crowded a place and not the best spot for catching the fireworks show that was sure to follow.

The best spot was by Palacio Municipal, right in front of the main park. We headed over to Parque Central, where we were fortunate to find a bench to people-watch from as we awaited midnight.

Municipal Palace

I noticed some people had brought small folding tables and chairs and had set them up in front of the park. As the clock struck midnight, many of the people at the tables popped open champagne bottles to celebrate.

A couple of years back the park was declared an alcohol-free zone, but I later learned champagne popping is an old New Year’s tradition of many of Antigua’s old families. This is probably why the Police looked the other way, at least for that night.

Fireworks

The fireworks show was great, all the more enhanced by the beautiful colonial surroundings. Here are more fireworks and pics I took later on in 2015.

I managed to record the video below, even though I came dangerously close to getting fragged by fireworks:

I thoroughly enjoyed Christmas in Guatemala, both the traditions and the great food. Well worth the time to spend Christmas here at least once.

*****

See more activities here: https://okantigua.com/things-to-do-in-antigua-guatemala/

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Check out other Christmas traditions

in Antigua Guatemala here and here.

Festival Navideño In Guatemala City

I doubt the Mayas ever heard of Santa Claus back when they were building one of the greatest, most advanced civilizations known to man. But it would only be a matter of time before good ol’ Saint Nick would make an appearance, much to the delight of merchants and business-people everywhere.

Festival Navideño

Today I’m visiting the Festival Navideño in Guatemala City (Christmas Festival), set up by the government on Guatemala City’s main square, in Zona 1. Apart from the Latin music blaring in the background and the stalls selling traditional Guatemalan sweets, the decorative elements are very much North American in influence.

There are gingerbread houses, made of cardboard:

Fake cardboard houses

Signs pointing in the direction of the North Pole:

Fake snow everywhere

A full-fledged outdoor ice skating rink, just like the ones no one used to play in Guatemala when they were kids:

Ice-skating in Guatemala City

And even an ice slide, where kids can practice their sledding techniques:

Tubing

Sarcasm aside, the nightly light shows (mapping) at the Cathedral are pretty cool to watch:

A Guatemalan Christmas?

Admittedly, this is all pretty cool when viewed through the eyes of a child.

But I get the nagging feeling that this is “someone else’s” vision of Christmas. One shaped by TV programming that incorporates elements and experiences that have zero to do with the countries they’re exported to

Is Christmas synonymous with ice skating, sledding, Santa Claus and gingerbread houses?

That would’ve been news to me as a kid growing up in the Dominican Republic.

My childhood memories of Christmas toys involved “The Three Wise-men”, not Santa Claus. And the big day for gifts was January 6th, not December 24th.

I never did go sledding on icy, snow-covered hills. I did do “sledding” on palm tree “yaguas”, so maybe that kinda counts.

Gingerbread houses? Nope. But we did manage to sneak a few sips of rum-spiked “ponche”, our own version of eggnog.

Chalk up my griping to old age, which seems to be making me crankier as my 35th birthday approaches next week.

I like traditions to stay the way they were. When it all becomes the same everywhere, travel loses some of its charms.

If I want to see Santa, I’d like to know where to find him, if I ever start to miss him.

Maybe in the coming days, I’ll experience what a true Guatemalan Christmas is like, not a cheap American imitation.

Such are the joys that globalization brings. Until then, I’ll have to wait.

In the meantime, I have to go do a little dancing.

“Gangnam Style” is playing over the loudspeakers.

*****

See more about life in Guatemala: https://okantigua.com/guatemala-expat/

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Three Things You Should Be Grateful for Today… But Probably Won’t Be

I’ve meant to finish this post since last week, but I’ve been busy with a few other things. Turns out this week couldn’t be more perfect, since Thanksgiving Day is in the minds of most Americans (my Canadian friends already had their Thanksgiving day, so they’re well ahead of everyone else when it comes to Christmas preparations).

Sometimes, we do a whole lot more complaining that we should. Living in a third-world country does tend to open your eyes at the vastness of resources and opportunities people in first-world countries have.

Here are three things you should be grateful for and that, at least for today, think about those that don’t have them:

1. Clean Water

So abundant in richer nations that we often forget that humans can’t live without drinking water for more than 5-6 days. We often forget how essential it is.

We use water for more than just drinking. We cook with it, wash with it… our lives revolve around access to clean water.

Take a moment to give thanks that you have water access. Then think of the ONE BILLION people in the world that do not.

You can do more than think about it too. John Bardos, from JetSetCitizen.com has excellent information about what you can do to help those who most desperately need access to clean water. Check it out here.

2. Electricity

Electricity is one of those things that seems to always “just be there.” We don’t notice it, pay attention to it, or care that we have it… until it’s gone.

And even when it does go, it’s either briefly, or during emergencies, like when a hurricane hammered New York and the East Coast not too long ago. Eventually, things always seem to go back to normal.

For some people, not having electricity is the “normal”. In Guatemala, about two out of every ten people lack access to electricity in their homes.

India has massive problems meeting its energy requirements and the poorest of the population have to do without it for hours, sometimes days.

Experiment and try to go without electricity for an one or two one night. You’ll be amazed how much you rely on it to make your way around your house, to relax and entertain yourself, to keep your food from spoiling in the fridge, to power your gadgets… Now imagine going without electricity for days at a time.

Support Habitat for Humanity, who has ongoing projects all over the world to help villages get the basic services most of the world has. Do what you can to be mindful of the resources you consume.

3. Access to Education

That you can read this on a computer puts you in a very small minority in the world.

A computer, or even an Internet-enabled smart-phone, gives you access to all the information you could ever want in this and next lifetime.

Could you imagine what this kid could do with a computer and unlimited Internet access? Many children will never get the opportunity.

It’s a common sight here in Guatemala to see otherwise bright, smart children, working on the streets to support their families. They often lack access to schools and other basic resources we take for granted, like libraries and school supplies.

This Thanksgiving week, don’t forget to be thankful for what you have, the dinner you’ll enjoy, and the presents you’ll be able to buy others come Christmas time. But also remember that billions out there will also join you in giving thanks…

…For making it through another day.

What are you thankful for?

Earth Lodge, Antigua Guatemala: Visitors Guide

One of the great things about living in Antigua Guatemala is that you can “get away from it all” by heading in almost any direction for about five minutes.

Since Antigua Guatemala is located in a valley, there are a few spots in the surrounding hills that afford great views, all with free admission. There’s a hill for every taste and mood you’re in.

Spots Overlooking Antigua

There’s Santo Domingo del Cerro, with its open-air art gallery and white-tablecloth restaurant (Tenedor del Cerro). There’s another nice restaurant worth a visit, Cerro San Cristobal.

And also Cerro de la Cruz, a no-frills, barely landscaped and nevertheless gorgeous viewing spot.

And then there’s tourist-friendly Earth Lodge, a “mountain lodge and avocado farm” just outside Antigua Guatemala.

Their Story

Earth Lodge is located 6,000 feet above sea level and it’s the highest vantage point of the three hills. The air is definitely chillier up here.

Drew and Brianna, a Canadian-American expat couple, have an interesting story. The came to Guatemala in 2003 and built their own little slice of paradise, with no construction or farming experience. Similar to what Pauline over at ReachFinancialIndependence.com is doing with her property in Peten, Guatemala.

From up here, the views of the valley are amazing.

View of Finca Filadelfia below

Getting to Earth Lodge

To get to Earth Lodge, you first have to reach Aldea El Hato, a small hamlet about 3.5 miles north of Antigua.

The easiest way to get to Earth Lodge Antigua to call Earth Lodge and they’ll arrange someone to pick you up at Antigua’s Central Park. Costs are as follows.

If you’re arriving from 6 am to 9 pm: For one person, 60Q. For two people, 35Q each. For three people, 25Q each. For groups of 4-9 people, 20Q each.

If you’re arriving from 9 pm to 6 am: For one person, 120Q. For two people, 60Q each. For three people, 40Q each. For four people, 30Q each. For 5-9 people, 25Q each.

The public bus stops in front of the church

You can arrive via public chicken bus (camioneta) – cost is only 2Q each way. However, you’ll be dropped off at El Hato village, in front of the church. From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to the parking lot for Earth Lodge. Buses bound for El Hato leave the back of the bus terminal every hour and a half or so. Make sure to ask when the bus returns, so you can time your exit from Earth Lodge properly.

Driving to Earth Lodge

To drive to Earth Lodge, just follow the same road that leads to Cerro de la Cruz, drive past it, and about 2 miles later you’ll reach El Hato.

Right when you get to the small main plaza, there’s a small one-lane road that will lead to Earth Lodge. There isn’t what you can call a parking space per se, but you can leave your car on the side of the road. There were two other cars when we visited and a fourth car would’ve been hard-pressed to find a spot.

UPDATE: Earth Lodge now has a secure parking lot just a few yards from the spot pictured below. It costs 15Q for 12 hours (good for overnight parking).

Free parking on the side of the road

Word of advice: If staying here, don’t even attempt to arrive late at night. The road, pleasant during the day, can become treacherous at night because it’s narrow and there isn’t any illumination (that I could spot) anywhere along the path.

Walking Down the Hill to Earth Lodge

Car safely parked, we made our way down the dirt road that leads to the property.

It’s an easy walk downhill – uphill, not so much

It’s not a good idea to stagger down this beautiful path drunk or late at night, or if you have bad knees.

Dirt path – more steps have been added since the photo was taken

After a pleasant walk downhill, we arrived at the nicely paved driveway, useful if you have a flying car and need a runway.

The path becomes nicer as you get closer

At last…

One more set of stairs to go

Restaurant

Earth Lodge has a laid-back atmosphere. The staff was really friendly and the food outstanding. The fruit smoothies, salad, and sausage burger were worth the visit. They also have great vegetarian options. Take a look at their menu here: Earth Lodge Menu

Unfortunately, I couldn’t try their famous guacamole because I was a week too early and avocados hadn’t fully ripened yet.

Main Lodge

There are a few quiet places inside the property, Adirondack chairs, and hammocks to lounge around.

Volcanoes look impressive from here – when there aren’t any clouds

Lodging and Camping

Earth Lodge Antigua has lodging options at all price levels.

From dorms with shared bathrooms…

Cabins at Earth Lodge

… to camping spots…

Nice, flat areas for camping

Good views from the camping spots

… and even tree-houses!

Treehouse – there are several on the property

Shortly after we arrived, the skies got cloudier and a light rain began to fall.

Avocado farm

We could literally see clouds rolling in and forming around us.

Pretty soon, the view of the valley gave way to clouds and even trees a few hundred yards away started to get lost in the mist. Such is winter weather in Antigua Guatemala. Sunny mornings followed by cloudy and often rain-filled afternoons.

Getting concerned about having to navigate a muddy, one-lane road, lacking guard-rails, we high-tailed it out of Earth Lodge before we really wanted to.

Leaving Earth Lodge

Don’t even want to imagine what navigating these roads look like during torrential rains.

The road can get muddy

The road can get treacherous if two cars are trying to get by

The road looks narrower than it is

At last, we finally made our way to the main road and into the main plaza of El Hato. It was awesome to spend a few hours among the clouds.

*****

See our list of activities: https://okantigua.com/things-to-do-in-antigua-guatemala/

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What’s your favorite thing about Earth Lodge?

Share in the comments!