The Whistlers: Guatemala’s Informal Economy

According to an article I read recently, about 75% of the working-age population in Guatemala is underemployed, members of the “informal” economy. They are self-employed Guatemalans who make ends meet working odd jobs or by opening a small business of some sort. For these folks, there is little in the way of legal protection or recourse. Simply put, a day not worked is a day that income won’t come. There’s no retirement plan awaiting, or a paid vacation.

Most people that visit Guatemala will have some sort of interaction with these workers. From handicrafts sellers, boys who’ll shine your shoes at Parque Central for Q3, to the lady that helps people park on the street while her two young daughters watch. Whether it rains or shines, what they eat (or don’t) that day will depend on how much money they can make that day.

For Guatemalans who grew up in their country, these workers are part of the landscape. For most foreigners, adjusting to this economy can often take some getting used to. For example, there are no newspaper dispensing machines in Antigua. Nor can you buy one at the supermarket. If you want a newspaper, you head to your favorite newspaper seller, who’ll be there selling them rain or shine. You can always visit the friendly “lady with a hat“, a fixture next to Parque Central.

If you happen to live on the outskirts of Antigua, or in one of the nearby towns, you might soon begin to figure out who’s selling what outside your door. I’ve yet to master this skill, one that is second nature to my wife. Depending on the whistle sound, there might be someone outside my house selling newspapers, fresh bread, goat milk, or alternatively, offering to remove soot from your pots and knick-knackspen your knives.

guatemala goat cheese

My Goat Cheese Dealer…

For weeks now, the wife has been nagging me to do something about the now-dull knives we bought a couple years ago at Cemaco (aka Guatemala’s version of Target). And for weeks I’ve been trying to figure out when the knife-sharpening guy was outside, only to return to the house bummed when it wasn’t. A blind squirrel will find a nut occasionally and after checking outside after every whistle, I finally found my guy.

Knife-sharpening Guy

The Elusive Knife-sharpening Guy

And so it was that for a price of Q5 per knife, I saved myself the trouble of having to sharpen knives myself or worse, buying cheap new ones at the Mercado, which I was close to doing.

If there’s a point to this post, I guess is that if you have the chance to pay somebody for an odd job here and there, do it. Or even if it’s buying cheap knick-knacks you’ll give away as presents to someone else later – like the poinsettias I bought for my wife last week from a couple of cute, chatty Maya girls on the street. This form of “giving” I feel is more effective than only handing out money to beggars, which Antigua has plenty of. I know it’s your money, and you can be as generous (or not) as you want and distribute as you see fit, but it’s something to consider.

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What’s your favorite “informal” economy purchase?
Share in the comments below!

Guatemalan Fireworks And Virgen de Guadalupe Day

The first time it happens, don’t be surprised if you experience what feels like a mild heart attack. There you are, snuggled up under a toasty blanket when suddenly, a small war breaks out outside your front door. Panic hits you first, then comes a sick feeling of disorientation.

“Where am I?”,  you ask yourself? “Somalia? Somewhere in Pakistan?”

Then it dawns on you that, yes, you’re on foreign soil, somewhere in Central America. Guatemala, actually.

Nerves frazzled, you shut your eyes trying to catch some sleep – but it won’t work. I know you’ll try to regardless of what I just told you. Just accept your morning is wrecked and that you might as well get on with your day.

Guatemalans Love Loud Fireworks

It might take you – and your dogs, if you have any – some time to get used to the ‘lovely’ local tradition of setting off bombas, or firecrackers at all hours, for any conceivable celebration. And not the pretty ones that light up the sky, but fireworks resembling mortar shells designed to go off at a certain height, or the type that go off like a machine gun.

Someone’s birthday? Bombas will go off at dawn at 6 am sharp, sleeping neighbors be damned.

A procession leaving a church? Bombas.

The Vice President renounces her post due to a corruption scandal? Bomba time.

As I type this, bombas are going off, I presume because it’s 6:27 pm on a Sunday night and I’m sure something noteworthy happened a long time ago at this very exact hour. It’s the only logical explanation.

If you have dogs, fireworks can be highly stressful for them. I recommend that you take a look at what are some of the things you can do to minimize their stress here.

Fireworks Season

There are two times during the year when bomba explosions ratchet up in frequency and intensity – Independence Day in September and Christmas. It’s one of those things that’s synonymous with the holidays here, as much a part of Christmastime as drinking ponche (hot fruit punch), eating tamales, setting the Devil ablaze, going door to door in tiny processions (posadas), and unwittingly buying Christmas presents for children of local Police Officers via bribes.

Bomba season starts ratcheting up on December 11, on the eve of the day of Virgin of Guadalupe Day, a wholly Mexican celebration that has taken root in Guatemala. And that’s my segue-way to show some pics and there’s nothing anyone can do about it :)

Virgin of Guadalupe Day Celebrations

This celebration is all about the children, whom parents dress up in traditional attire. Boys are dressed as Juan Diego – a saint who some in the Catholic Church doubt even existed, while girls are dressed as indigenous girls. Fake beards for boys are part of the costume.

In Antigua, children are taken to churches – usually La Merced, where photographers have set up displays with live animals.

Virgen de Guadalupe Day in Antigua Guatemala

Virgen de Guadalupe Photo Stand

For a fee – and there’s always a fee (Q20), children can pose for and receive a picture. There was about 10-15 such photo stands, all competing with each other for business (hence the appearance of live animals – chickens, roosters, rabbits, parrots, and kittens).

The atmosphere in front of the church’s plaza is really festive and full of all sorts of street vendors selling traditional food items.

Although it seems like I was complaining about bombas at first – maybe I was, at least about the early morning ones –  I really enjoy the Christmas season here. I can stay far away from Guatemala City malls (traffic is hellacious there at this time of the year anyway), while also getting into the spirit of the season. Christmas without consumerism – what a novel concept.

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Thinking of moving to Antigua? Go here: https://okantigua.com/guatemala-expat/

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Do you love early morning bombas? 

Identify yourself as a mental patient in the comments below! 

Thanksgiving Dinners in Antigua Guatemala for 2015

Old habits die hard. In Antigua Guatemala this week and fancying some roasted turkey with a helping of cranberry sauce? You’re in luck! More than a few Thanksgiving Dinner options available in town and all “crazy aunt/uncle” free. And if you don’t have a crazy aunt/uncle, could it be… that you’re the crazy one in the family? Some in my family have no doubt I’m the one…

So, to avoid ending up like the guy below, why not let someone else handle this year’s Thanksgiving Dinner for a change?

mr bean turkey

What I’m sure would happen if I attempted to cook a Thanksgiving turkey on my own…

You’re invited to give thanks for being in the Land of Eternal Spring™ at any of the fine dining establishments below. Sorted by price, from the ridiculously cheap to the “why do you hate America?” price levels.

Las Palmas Restaurant

6a Avenida Norte #14

Starting at 12:00pm to 10:00pm

Traditional Thanksgiving Dinner – turkey, mashed potatoes & gravy, pumpkin pie, the works. Glass of house wine included. Cost is Q139 per person. Reservations at 7832-9734.

Earth Lodge

El Hato Village

Starting at 6:00pm (See Event Page)

This was my pick last year (well… I was invited but would’ve picked it anyway) and it was outstandingALL YOU CAN EAT BUFFET FOR Q140. Charity pub quiz (proceeds go to El Hato School). Reserve transportation (Q15 per person each way) and your seat, as it will fill up – being fashionably late is a bad move: 3006-7634 or 4980-2564 or at earthlodge@gmail.com. Happy Hour from 3:00pm-Dinner Time.

The menu: Roasted Turkey, Stuffed Eggplant (for Vegetarians), sweet potato casserole, steamed veggies with butter, green salad with strawberry vinaigrette, mashed potatoes & gravy, italian bread stuffing, cranberry sauce plus homemade apple & pumpkin pies with real whipped cream for dessert.

Hotel Villa Colonial

Alameda del Calvario # 28

Starting at 7:00pm (See Event Page)

Come to a Thanksgiving Dinner sponsored by the Rotarian Ladies of Guatemala to benefit the public schools of Antigua. Cost is Q175 per person – cash only. Live music by “Sonidos de Vida”. Cash bar available.

Angeline’s

2a Calle Poniente #3

From 1:00pm – 10:00pm (See Event Page)

Turkey with all the trimmings and pecan or apple pie Q200.00 per person. You can also order your whole turkey for pick up. Call 7832-0006 for orders or reservations or visit angelineantigua.com.

Sobremesa Antigua Guatemala Thanksgiving Dinner

Sobremesa

4a Calle Oriente #4

From  6:00pm – 10:00pm

Thanksgiving dinner, Sobremesa-style. Call 5293-6366 for reservations. Cost is Q200.

The Menu: Turkey breast, candied yams, goat’s cheese mashed potatoes, ratatouille, cornbread, salad, pumpkin cheesecake and more.

Welten

4a Calle Oriente #21

Starting at 7:00pm

Thanksgiving dinner – includes a glass of wine and table decorations. Cost is Q238. Reservations at 7832-6970 or reserve@weltenrestaurant.com.

Hotel Camino Real Thanksgiving Dinner

Hotel Camino Real

5a Avenida Sur #19

Starting at 6:00pm – 10:00pm

Reservations suggested – call 7873-7000 ext. 5840. Cost is Q245. See menu above.

Meson Panza Verde Thanksgiving Dinner

Meson Panza Verde

5a Avenida Sur #19

Starting at 12:00pm – 10:00pm

Reservations suggested – call 7955-8282. Thanksgiving Day Prix Fixe Menu:

Baked Turkey – Served with all the trimmings – Q260 / Róbalo Bouillabaisse – Snook, scallops and squid with bouillabaisse sauce – Q290 / Steak and portobello mushrooms – Beef tenderloin, sauteéd portobellos, herbs and garlic – Q310

— Soup or Salad —  Güicoy Soup (Guatemalan squash, coriander, cream), Gravlax (Salmon served with honey and dijon dressing), Asian Salad with Scallops, young mixed greens, grilled scallops, and oriental vinaigrette.

— Dessert — Pumpkin Pie, Apple Strudel

“But Rich,” you say, “I do want to slave away in a hot kitchen for a few hours.” Sure, be my guest. However, even then, there are ways to shortcut the process.

Give Pappy’s BBQ a call at 7758-9595 for your turkey (Q52/pound for fried turkey, Q56/pound for smoked turkey). You can order as late as Wednesday, but that would be cutting it close. The smallest turkey they sell is about 12 pounds. Half a turkey will serve about 6 people.

For other goodies, check out Blue Butterfly Bakery their Thanksgiving Day combos for apple pies, rolls, potato salad, etc.

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Know of any place serving Thanksgiving Dinners this year?

Let us know in the comments below!

Giant Kites of Guatemala: Wallpaper Photos

It’s the end of the year and in Guatemala, unless you’re around touristy sites like Antigua, the holiday season can look very different. Sure, the “hip” young crowd is into Halloween parties and consumerism.

You don’t have to look very hard – in Antigua at least – for restaurants that offer Thanksgiving dinners with all the trimmings. But for the rest of Guatemala, there are different traditions on display.

Giant Kites of Guatemala

One of the most awaited traditions are the giant kite displays. These world-famous kites are staged in an all-day event that’s broadcast on public television with almost as much pomp as Holy Week processions.

Fortunately for Antigua residents and visitors alike, these giant kite celebrations are held not very far from town. Many travel agencies offer shuttles to these events – held on November 1st – though it’s very easy to attend via public transportation if you chose to.

Read about my visit to Sumpango giant kites events and the one at Santiago Sacatepéquez. In the meantime, enjoy these calendars.

***For a list of Events happening in Antigua this month Click Here***

Giant kites in Santiago Sacatepequez

Giant kites in Santiago Sacatepequez

Giant kites in Sumpango

Giant kites in Sumpango

These calendars, as always, are available in a US-friendly format and mark Sunday as the first day of the week.

To apply the calendar to your desktop, follow the instructions below:

1- Click on the following links to get your preferred version; each of these links will open a new window (or tab) displaying the wallpaper calendar in the screen size selected.

Santiago Giant Kites:  1920 x 1200 -&- 1920 x 1080

Sumpango Giant Kites:  1920 x 1200 -&- 1920 x 1080

2- Right-click (or Ctrl-click for most Mac users) on the image. Choose the option that says, “Set as Desktop Background”, “Use as Desktop Picture,” or something to that effect. Keep in mind that the exact wording will depend on the browser you use.

3- If the image does not fit your desktop background like it should, you may have to go to your preference options. On a Mac? Go to System Preferences > Desktop & Screen Saver > Desktop. Using Windows? Go to Control Panel > Display > Desktop) and choose “Fit to screen” as the display mode of your background image.

So have fun and go fly a kite!That’s what the locals will do :)

Feel free to share with friends and comment on our Facebook page.

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More great activities here!

Santa Clara Convent Courtyard: Antigua Guatemala Ruins

Here’s another September calendar for you! This wallpaper calendar features the ruins of Santa Clara Convent and Church, which in colonial times was one of the largest women’s convents in the city. This calendar is my wife’s favorite. Download this calendar below.

There’s also another calendar available, featuring a well-recognized Guatemalan icon in handicraft form. Check it out by clicking here.

***For a list of Events happening in Antigua this month Click Here***

Santa Clara Convent in Antigua Guatemala

Santa Clara Convent

This calendar is available in a US-friendly format which marks Sunday as the first day of the week.

To apply the calendar to your desktop, follow the instructions below:

1- Click on the following links to get your preferred version; each of these links will open a new window (or tab) displaying the wallpaper calendar in the screen size selected.

Santa Clara Courtyard:  1920 x 1200 -&- 1920 x 1080

2- Right-click (or Ctrl-click for most Mac users) on the image. Choose the option that says, “Set as Desktop Background”, “Use as Desktop Picture,” or something to that effect. Keep in mind that the exact wording will depend on the browser you use.

3- If the image does not fit your desktop background like it should, you may have to go to your preference options. On a Mac? Go to System Preferences > Desktop & Screen Saver > Desktop. Using Windows? Go to Control Panel > Display > Desktop) and choose “Fit to screen” as the display mode of your background image.

I hope you enjoy them! Feel free to share with friends and comment on our Facebook page.

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Our list of best attractions can be found here.